Vietnam & Cambodia Chapter 3

swedeshouse
Mar 8
6 min read

Updated: Mar 8

From Da Nang to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

The alarm came early—very early.

Our last morning on the central coast of Vietnam started well before sunrise. We were up and out the door by 5:45 a.m. to meet our driver and guide for the shuttle to Da Nang Airport. Waiting for us in the lobby was a thoughtful touch: a pre-ordered box breakfast, ready to go. Coffee in hand and bags loaded, we slipped into the quiet early-morning streets for the 45–55 minute drive to the airport. Traffic was light—one of the rare times you see Vietnam’s roads at anything resembling calm.

Our guide walked us to the Vietnam Airlines check-in counter where the ticket agent surprised us with a bit of good news: she could move us from our scheduled 8:55 flight to an 8:10 departure to Saigon. It sounded like a great idea… until we saw the security line.

What looked manageable quickly turned into a slow crawl. Watching the clock tick closer to boarding made the decision feel a little nerve-racking. We finally cleared security at 7:38 a.m., hustled toward the gate—and fortunately found that boarding was already underway and the gate was only a short walk away.

Crisis avoided.

The flight itself was quick—about 1 hour and 20 minutes—and before long we were descending into the sprawling urban landscape of Saigon, officially Ho Chi Minh City. After landing, we boarded one of those winding airport buses that snakes its way from plane to terminal before finally reaching the gate and baggage claim.

The moment the airport doors opened we felt it immediately:heat and humidity.

Saigon was easily 10–15 degrees warmer than Hoi An, and the air had that dense tropical weight to it. Standing just outside the terminal was our guide Dong, holding a small sign with our names—always a reassuring sight in a busy airport.

A quick walk to the car and we were off into the organized chaos of Saigon traffic.

Lacquer Art and Agent Orange

Our first stop was a place that turned out to be both interesting and moving: Sơn Mài Lâm Phát – Handicapped & Handicraft, a lacquer art workshop run by disabled victims of Agent Orange.

Inside, artisans worked quietly at long tables crafting intricate lacquer pieces using wood panels, duck egg shells, sea shells, pigments, and layer upon layer of lacquer. Watching the process unfold was fascinating. The detail and patience required were incredible.

We couldn’t resist and picked up a couple small pieces before continuing on. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/zaJxobDdY2Xz936b9)

Lunch by the River

By late morning it was time for lunch. Our guide took us to Ben Nay Restaurant, a popular tourist stop set in a large open pavilion beside a slow, lazy river.

The setting was relaxed, shaded, and breezy—perfect after the heat outside. The food was solid Vietnamese fare, but what really hit the spot were our first cold beers of the day:333 Beer and Saigon Beer. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/WLVByGG74wf4Huwv8)

Cold beer in tropical heat always seems to taste a little better.

The Củ Chi Tunnels

Next came one of the most famous sites near Saigon: the Địa Đạo Củ Chi tunnels.

Walking through the grounds and learning about the tunnel system was both fascinating and sobering. The Viet Cong engineered an entire underground network—living quarters, kitchens, hospitals, meeting rooms—all hidden beneath the jungle floor.

Small camouflaged entrances dotted the landscape. Narrow tunnels twisted and branched in ways that would disorient any outsider. Hidden traps were designed to slow or injure soldiers moving through the jungle above.

It was impressive from an engineering standpoint—but also impossible not to imagine the reality of it.

Fighting in that environment must have been terrifying.

And living inside those tunnels? Hard to comprehend.

By the time we finished the tour the heat and humidity were relentless. I was completely soaked through by the time we climbed back into the car. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/hTLPUZ9o6FgLzwHJ8)

A Quick Tour of Saigon

Back in the city, Dong took us on a series of short stops to see some of Saigon’s historic landmarks.

War Remnants Museum was our first stop. It’s powerful, emotional, and undeniably presented from the Vietnamese government’s perspective of the war. But walking through it you realize there may never be a “comfortable” perspective on something that tragic. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/4gZQWhPvRsH3r53L9)

Next was Independence Palace, which we viewed from the outside while hearing a bit of its history as the site where the Vietnam War effectively ended in 1975. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Hrr1sUjCrLJtEy7u6)

We continued on to Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon, though there wasn’t much to see. The cathedral has been covered in scaffolding for years while waiting for restoration materials to arrive from France. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/AYRWbvCWLuAXc6qRA)

Just down the street, however, was one of the city’s architectural gems: Saigon Central Post Office. The building looks almost like a French train station, with its grand arched ceilings and long hallways. Inside, souvenir stands line the walls and tourists queue up to send postcards home—apparently still a very popular tradition. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/xMvVMBm9m9tR2nWU6)

Our final stop of the afternoon was Ben Thanh Market (Chợ Bến Thành).

If you’ve been to markets across Southeast Asia, you know the scene:

“Hello my friend! Watch? Shoes? Handbag? Very good price!”

They all blend together after a while.

But somehow we still managed to walk away with two watches and a handbag. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/RPGyP5CXviz4dd587)

Hotel des Arts Saigon

By 5:00 p.m. we arrived at our hotel, the beautiful Hotel des Arts Saigon, a stylish boutique hotel right in the city center.

At check-in we were offered an upgrade from the 5th floor to the 21st floor for $72, which also included access to the Sky Lounge. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Tg9viPBJd2F6R8qX9)

Easy decision.

The lounge had incredible views over the city, and we spent the evening enjoying cocktails, food, and conversation with a few fellow travelers. That is… until a loud and rather obnoxious group of about twelve from Dallas, Texas arrived and proceeded to behave as if they owned the place.

The rest of the lounge suffered through their performance for a while.

When they finally left, the remaining guests literally clapped. (don't be "that guy").

A quick call to Sam before bed to wish him a Happy Valentine’s Day and early birthday, and then it was lights out.

We slept hard that night.

Tomorrow the cruise begins, and check-in was scheduled for 11:00 a.m. in the lobby.

One Last Morning in Saigon

Breakfast at the hotel—like nearly every hotel breakfast we’ve had in Vietnam—was excellent.

Fresh fruit, eggs, pastries, Vietnamese dishes… the works.

Afterward we grabbed a quick taxi back to Ben Thanh Market for one last round of bargaining before boarding the ship.

Mission accomplished.

I walked away with a Rolex and a Breitling, and Pam scored a Louis Vuitton purse.

Not bad for a quick market run.

We returned to the hotel, freshened up, and then met Huy in the lobby for the short 20-minute bus ride to the ship.

Boarding the Ship "R.V. PANDAW TONLE"

Once onboard we were welcomed with a brief orientation video and a refreshing watermelon welcome drink while the crew explained the basics—life jackets, safety procedures, and the general schedule.

Then it was time for a buffet lunch, which turned out to be excellent.

We shared a table with Steve and Sara from Rhode Island, a nice couple traveling around Asia on an extended journey. They told us about their long-term project of hiking the Camino de Santiago, completing different sections over several years.

Great conversation.

After lunch we headed up to the sun deck, cracked open a 333 beer, and settled into our chairs with our books while watching life drift by along the river.

Our cabin—Room 202, front starboard—was PERFECT, with a small peek-through forward window.

One note though:

Mind the anchor noise.

(More on that tomorrow.)

Music, Wine, and New Friends

After freshening up we headed out for evening cocktails where a duo played acoustic guitar and sang while the crew introduced themselves.

For dinner we sat with Peter and Rodney from the UK and Australia, two great guys who had traveled extensively. Conversation flowed easily—from travel stories to world politics to our favorite places we’d visited.

Dinner turned into wine.

Wine turned into a late evening back on the sun deck bar, where the musicians continued playing and guests sang along under the warm night sky.

Eventually the night caught up with us.

We turned in while the ship rested quietly at anchor in the river, ready for whatever the next day of the journey would bring.