Africa – The Trip of a Lifetime
- swedeshouse
- Mar 13
- 9 min read
This trip was the one that first got me thinking about capturing our vacations and memorializing them somehow.
Years ago, Pam and I were going through her dad Jim’s treasure box of keepsakes. Inside was a document written by his father, describing a boat trip he had taken with friends through the Chesapeake waterways of the United States. The document carefully cataloged travel routes, meals, adventures, and places visited.
I remember thinking how fascinating it was to read about someone’s adventure even though I had never met the man.
That simple document stuck with me.
It took me three years after this trip to finally sit down and document it. Life has a way of getting in the way. My own father passed away less than 30 days after we returned from our safari, and everything else simply got pushed aside.
Now, after returning from another epic adventure through Vietnam and Cambodia, I finally sat down and created a blog page to capture our travels. I finished the Vietnam and Cambodia entry and placed placeholders for Africa and Switzerland.
So… here we go.
The Invitation
In May of 2023, our great friends Brad and Susan reached out with an invitation.
They had been planning a safari trip with a group of friends for several years, but unfortunately one couple had to bow out due to a medical issue. That meant two seats had suddenly opened up.
The catch?
The trip was already deep into the planning stages. Deposits had been paid and final payment was due in about 30 days.
In other words… we didn’t have much time to think about it.
Now for the backstory.
Brad had previously invited me on two other incredible trips, including one sailing from Seattle to Alaska. Both times I had scheduling conflicts and couldn’t make it work. I knew if I passed on this one, this might be my third strike.
(Not that Brad would actually blacklist me… but you never know.)
Brad and Susan are serious world travelers in fact Susan recently hit "100" not years countries. For those reading that don't know them take a minute to look at their travel page Buggy Teeth which is all about their motorcycle adventures around the world.
Oh, and there was also the cost, which was… significant. Significant enough that it required a serious marital discussionand possibly the sale of one of my kidneys.
After a relaxing dinner at a local restaurant and a cocktail or two, Pam and I decided there was simply no way we could pass up this opportunity.
The trip had been arranged by Brad and Susan, which meant it would be epic. On top of that, Susan’s sister Ann is a travel agent who specializes in Africa, and she had direct relationships with the camps and guides we would be using.
In other words, every detail of this adventure was going to be perfect.
Preparing for the Journey
After confirming with Brad and Susan that we were in, the planning began.
Ann was incredible. She shared detailed guidance on what to bring, what to leave at home, and what not to waste money buying.
One rule stood above all others:
33 pounds.
That was the weight limit for luggage on the small aircraft flying into the Maasai Mara.
You get:
One checked bag – 33 lbs
One small backpack
That’s it.
For the next couple of months we played a constant game of pack, weigh, unpack, repack trying to find the right combination.
Guess what?
We still brought more than we needed.
Things that were essential:
Camera
Binoculars
Light jacket
Things we worried about but never needed:
Mosquito gear (I’m not sure I ever saw one).
Getting to Africa
When it came time to plan flights (Pam’s specialty), we reviewed a lot of options.
Eventually we settled on:
Salt Lake City → Atlanta → Johannesburg, South Africa
This route worked best for timing and connections.
Pam and I spent several nights in Johannesburg (more on that in another entry) before boarding a Kenya Airways flight to Nairobi to meet the rest of the group.
When we arrived in Nairobi we were greeted at the airport by one of Ann’s partners holding a sign with our name on it.
A first for us.
He warmly welcomed us, grabbed our bags, and drove us to the Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport where we would stay for the first couple of nights.
After checking in we found Brad in the rooftop bar. Susan joined us later, and over the next several hours the rest of the group slowly trickled in.
Eventually the entire crew had assembled:
Brad & Susan
Ann
Morgan & Ben
Chad & Lily
Adam & Wendy
Al & Roxi
Pam & I
Exploring Nairobi
Over the next couple of days we visited several famous locations around Nairobi:
The Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
The Giraffe Center
The Karen Blixen Museum
The Dollar store (shopping)
And of course we made a mandatory stop at The Carnivore Restaurant, where we tried about every type of meat imaginable.
At the Giraffe Center, we were able to hand-feed giraffes up close.
At the Elephant Orphanage, we watched baby elephants run to their feeding stations while their caretakers tried to keep order. Watching the little ones hustle toward their bottles was absolutely hilarious.
We even got a close look at a rhino.
The Karen Blixen Museum was especially interesting. It is the real-life home featured in the movie “Out of Africa”, starring Robert Redford and Meryl Streep. The story is based on Danish author Karen Blixen, who lived in Kenya running a coffee plantation and later wrote about her experiences.
Into the Maasai Mara
Soon it was time to leave Nairobi and head into the wild.
We boarded a small 50-seat plane with our carefully inspected 33-pound bags, leaving a small duffel at the hotel with items we wouldn’t need until our return.
As the plane descended toward the dirt airstrip in the Maasai Mara, we could already see herds of wildebeest, giraffes, and elephants from the window.
Upon landing we were greeted by our Maasai guides, waiting beside open-air Land Rovers.
After quick introductions we were handed Tusker beers and loaded into the vehicles.
Within seconds of leaving the airstrip we stopped to watch hyenas on the roadside. Then came ostriches, elephants, and massive herds of wildebeest stretching to the horizon.
It was almost too much to process at once.
Tangulia Mara Camp
Eventually we arrived at Tangulia Mara Camp.
Our hosts lined up to welcome us as we arrived. Our bags disappeared toward our tents while we gathered in the main lodge.
The lodge was a beautiful stone and wood building with a thatched roof, featuring a cozy lounge and a massive deck overlooking a meadow that rolled down to the river.
The meadow was full of wildlife—giraffes, elephants, and countless other animals—while the river below was packed with crocodiles.
Over lunch we met our guides, including Jackson Looseyia and Salaash Ole Morompi, both world-renowned safari guides with decades of experience.
That afternoon we experienced our first “sundowners.”
This is one of the great traditions of the Mara: enjoying cocktails in the wild while watching animals roam the savannah and the Kenyan sun set over the horizon.
Dinner followed in the lodge dining room, and afterward we experienced our first Askari escort.
An Askari is the gentleman armed with a spear, knife, and flashlight who escorts you back to your tent after dark.
You only need an Askari after dark.
Because…
Well…
It’s dangerous after dark.
Also, once inside your canvas tent for the night you are not supposed to go outside.
My understanding is that sometime after the colonial period, a treaty was signed between humans and carnivores stating that animals would respect the out-of-bounds rule created by canvas tents.
Animals will absolutely eat you if you violate the treaty by wandering around outside.
Or something like that.
Life in the Safari Camp
The next morning we woke to strange noises and a glowing light outside our tent.
Risking life and limb, I peeked outside and saw a massive glowing orange ball rising into the sky.
Turns out it was hot air balloons inflating before sunrise to take tourists on aerial rides over the Mara.
Eventually an Askari arrived with coffee to confirm we were awake.
Our “tent,” by the way, was hardly a tent.
It sat on a 20 x 40 foot teak deck and included:
Two comfortable beds
Dressing area
Double vanity
Shower
Private toilet room
Each night the staff placed a hot water bottle inside the bed to warm it before we turned in.
Game Drives
After breakfast we loaded into our safari vehicles.
Each vehicle had:
A driver and guide
Stadium-style seating for 4–6 guests
An electric cooler filled with Tusker beer, water, soda, and whatever else we wanted
As we drove through the Mara we quickly realized something amazing:
Animals like wildebeest, elephants, and giraffes were everywhere.
Literally everywhere.
For people who had never seen anything like this before, every sighting felt incredible.
Our real mission each day was to locate the famous “Big Five”:
Lions
Leopards
Cheetahs
Buffalo
Rhinos
Within the first couple days we spotted several lion prides, mostly lounging in the shade.
We also spotted cheetahs, including one moment when we stopped to observe one only to realize a second cheetah had been hiding just feet away on the other side of a berm.
The First Big Male Lion
On our third day one of the vehicles radioed in that they had spotted a large male lion.
As we drove toward them, Pam suddenly pointed out something ahead of us.
Walking calmly down the road toward us was a massive male lion.
He passed within just a few feet of our completely open vehicle.
No doors.
No windows.
Just us… and the lion.
Fortunately the tent treaty apparently applies to vehicles as well, meaning carnivores have agreed not to eat humans seated in safari trucks.
Thanks for that.
Rhinos and Village Visits
During one drive we reached the Tanzanian border and spotted two female rhinos with calves.
One was several hundred yards away—but when you’re the size of a Volkswagen bus, you’re still easy to see.
Later we visited a local Maasai village, surrounded by a large protective fence made from thick sticks to keep predators out.
Inside the enclosure families lived in traditional dung huts.
We toured the village, watched traditional dances, and even tried our hand at starting a fire with two sticks.
I managed to succeed.
That said, if I ever end up on the TV show Survivor, I’m still bringing a lighter.
That evening the tribe visited our lodge and surprised us with another dance performance, inviting everyone to participate.
There was plenty of dancing, cheering, and laughter.
House in the Wild
After several days we said goodbye to Tangulia Mara Camp and drove to our second location: House in the Wild.
The drive might have been an hour according to Google Maps, but the roads had other ideas.
Fortunately the scenery—and wildlife—made the journey unforgettable.
House in the Wild featured beautiful thatched cabins, a central lodge, and even a swimming pool.
Our room included:
A canopy bed surrounded by mosquito netting
Floor-to-ceiling glass doors overlooking the river
A massive bathroom
Copper soaking tub
Outdoor stone-walled shower
Not exactly roughing it.
More Safari Adventures
This region had fewer animals overall, but we still saw several large male lions competing for the attention of one female.
At one point we suffered a flat tire, which resulted in half the group driving ahead to dinner while one guide stood guard with his trusty knife and the others changed the tire.
Over the next few days we saw incredible wildlife, including three lionesses with nearly a dozen cubs playing right in front of us.
We also visited a rhino sanctuary, where rhinos roam freely but are monitored and protected 24/7 by armed guards to prevent poaching.
At one point Salaash’s daughter unexpectedly arrived with school friends.
I introduced myself as her long-lost “Uncle Brent.”
From that moment on, Salaash has referred to me exclusively as Uncle Brent.
A year later, Salaash and Jackson visited Utah on a promotional tour and invited me to meet them at an art gallery in Park City.
It was wonderful reconnecting with friends from the other side of the world.
The Perfect Finale
Our final night included one last surprise.
Our guides drove us to the top of a nearby mountain, navigating rough trails until we reached the summit.
There they had prepared:
A large bonfire
Cocktails
Appetizers
As the sun set over the savannah, the local tribe emerged from the forest, chanting and dancing their way toward our fire.
We danced, sang, and participated in a jumping contest.
(Spoiler alert: I did not medal.)
It was the perfect way to end the adventure.
The Journey Home
The next day we began the long journey home:
Kenya → South Africa → United States.
We remain forever grateful to Brad and Susan for inviting us on this incredible experience.
To Ann for the flawless planning.
And to the guides, staff, and everyone behind the scenes at Tangulia Mara Camp and House in the Wild who made this truly a trip of a lifetime.
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