Vietnam & Cambodia Chapter 4
- swedeshouse
- Mar 8
- 8 min read
Mekong River Days – From Vietnam into Cambodia
(Pandaw Cruise Journal – February 16–22)
February 16 — Day 2: Coconut Candy, Canoes, and Rodney’s Pancakes
The day started quietly on the sundeck, coffee in hand, watching a handful of dedicated guests doing tai chi while the Mekong drifted slowly past. It’s a peaceful way to wake up—river mist, soft morning light, and the occasional clink of coffee cups.
Breakfast in the dining room continued the trend we’d been enjoying since arriving in Vietnam—excellent buffets with both Asian and Western options, plus a chef station turning out hot Vietnamese dishes. Somewhere in the middle of this culinary spread came the morning’s first entertainment.
Rodney ordered Vietnamese pancakes. What arrived was… American pancakes.
The confusion led to a solid ten minutes of laughter with Rodney and Peter while Rodney tried to explain the difference between a crepe-like Vietnamese banh xeo and a stack of fluffy IHOP-style pancakes.
After breakfast the crew loaded us into a dragon boat for our first shore excursion near Ben Tre. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/8K1E3386n3ZQ2qAt5)
On shore we climbed into three-wheeled tuk-tuk trucks, each packed with four to six passengers in the back like tourists in a slightly underfunded clown car. A quick fifteen-minute ride took us to a coconut candy factory, where we watched the process, sampled the goods, and inspected a dead snake that someone apparently thought would add to the experience.
From there we boarded small wooden canoes and glided through narrow jungle canals. No mosquitoes, thankfully, though I managed to brush against a plant full of ants and picked up a bite or two for the effort.
A short jungle walk past a few local homes brought us to a large restroom facility—always appreciated in the tropics—before enjoying fresh fruit on a shaded lanai overlooking the water while local musicians played traditional songs.
Soon we were back on the dragon boat heading toward the ship, passing the enormous white Buddhist statues at Chùa Liên Hoa – Mẹ Nam Hải Tiền Giang. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/hMEhnaTtG8AW4H2t5)
Lunch back on board featured a wonderful sea bass, and we spent the afternoon meeting other passengers, including Kane from the UK. A quick nap followed—standard operating procedure on river cruises.
At 3:00 PM our guide Huy gave a presentation titled History of Vietnam & Life Along the Mekong Delta. Then it was back to the sundeck for river watching, which naturally led into cocktail hour… or possibly cocktail hours.
Sunset over the delta was spectacular.
Dinner was with Jon and Paula from the UK. We ordered the duck, which was fantastic, and enjoyed good conversation and plenty of laughs.
Later we returned to the sundeck for more sightseeing and drinks. The ship moored for the night in Châu Đốc. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/YTaV6RKHY1MLCZ14A)
February 17 — Day 3: 400 Steps and 70,000 Fish
Up at 0600, showered, and on the sundeck by 0630 with coffee—watching the tai chi crew again.
Breakfast with Pam, Jon, Paula, Steve, and Sara fueled us up for the morning’s adventure: a bus ride to Phước Điền Tự (Hang Pagoda). (https://maps.app.goo.gl/WU7EE4JL8P4B774B6)
The catch?Four hundred steps.
It was the first day of Lunar New Year celebrations, so locals were everywhere. Kids waved and shouted hello. Adults laughed because I was sweating like crazy while they wore coats.
At one point a guy reached out and squeezed my forearm.
Still not sure if he admired the muscles…or was testing the merchandise.
Back down the steps and onto a sampan for a visit to a floating fishing house in a Cham village. Imagine a house sitting on the water, but underneath it—like a basement—is a giant fish farm raising 70,000 fish for market.
Afterward we visited a silk loom weaver, then watched locals perform a lively dragon dance before returning to the ship.
The afternoon included a behind-the-scenes ship tour. While Pam took a nap, I explored the engine room, crew areas, fuel storage, water treatment plant, spa, library, and eventually the bridge to meet the captain.
Our ship, the RV Pandaw Tonle, was built in Myanmar in 2002 and moved to Cambodia in 2004. She’s about 180 feet long, powered by twin Cummins K19 engines, with generators providing enough electricity to power everything onboard.
Sam would probably appreciate the electrical specs.I mostly confirmed one important detail:
Yes, I can charge my phone.
That afternoon we crossed the border into Cambodia. The river grew quieter—mostly farmland, little boat traffic due to the holiday.
We also said goodbye to our Vietnam guide Huy (“Mr. Mango”), who left the ship to celebrate the holiday with his family.
Cocktail hour featured Long Island Iced Teas, followed by dinner and an attempt to watch the movie The Killing Fields in the lounge.
I made it about halfway.
When I stepped outside for a drink, I noticed something else: the bright lights of Phnom Penh glowing like Las Vegas. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/NAatBvow2CDY3TqNA)
And then the moths arrived.
Billions of them.
The ship looked like a floating bug convention.
February 18 — Day 4: Cambodia’s Darkest History
Morning began at the Phnom Penh river port with the usual routine—coffee on the sundeck and the tai chi crowd.
Breakfast included a fun discovery: Rodney is a costume designer for London theaters, which explains his enthusiasm for dramatic storytelling.
At 7:30 AM two Cambodian generals boarded the ship to conduct passport inspection, matching faces to documents.
Shortly afterward we climbed into cyclotaxis and rode to the Royal Palace of Cambodia. The palace complex features ornate buildings, gardens, statues, and the famous Silver Pagoda floor made from thousands of silver tiles. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/qJHiSe7y7jqFamjJ7)
Next stop was the National Museum of Cambodia, filled with priceless Khmer artifacts—many of which had been stolen decades ago and later returned from around the world.
Back on the cyclotaxi, I tipped my driver $5 and added an “overweight surcharge” of another dollar because it was hot and, well… I felt bad for the guy pulling me around Phnom Penh. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/3HUe36ButJSVpems6)
Lunch back on the ship was lamb, fish, vegetables, and an Angkor beer.
The afternoon excursion was sobering.
We visited the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, where the Khmer Rouge executed over 20,000 victims during the terror of Pol Pot. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/gZKQWphEf1i7pSjq6)
From there we went to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, once a school turned prison where thousands were tortured before execution. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/txHbG45fisqwrHfS7)
There we met Chum Mey, one of only seven survivors liberated in 1979. Now in his 90s, he spends his days at the museum telling his story. I bought a signed copy of his book and took a photo with him.
A powerful moment.
That evening back on the ship we watched a traditional Cambodian dance and puppet performance, followed by dinner and a very lively karaoke session.
Paula proved she had serious karaoke skills.Greg did the robot.
And somehow I ended up playing tambourine.
February 19–20 — Village Life Along the Mekong
The next two days were filled with rural Cambodia—the real highlight of the trip.
We rode ox carts through lotus farms, toured small villages, visited eel farms and cricket farms (yes, I ate the crickets—salty and crunchy), and wandered local markets.
Kids followed us everywhere, curious and smiling. At one point I handed out Haribo gummy bears and instantly became the most popular man in Cambodia until the bag was empty.
Later we joined a village campfire gathering organized by the ship’s crew. What first felt like a tourist event turned out to be something more genuine—local families gathered around, kids dancing, music playing, and everyone laughing together.
It was hot and humid, but the fire helped keep mosquitoes away.
Back on board that night we shared dinner with Rodney, Peter, Denise, Jon, Paula, Kane, and Veronica—great company and even better stories.
The following day included meditation with monks at the Sontte Wan Buddhist Meditation Center, visits to silver-smith villages, a noodle factory, and a silk weaving demonstration. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/D7ZMoPbKYop74GzJ7)
Pam and I also took advantage of the ship’s spa—90-minute massages that may have been the best decision of the entire trip.
February 21 — The Final River Day
Our last day on the Mekong included village walks, aluminum recycling shops, and a local market filled with fish, meat, and produce.
One of the more fascinating presentations came from our Cambodian guide Lee, who explained the unusual hydrology of the Tonlé Sap River.
During the rainy season the river actually reverses direction, flowing back into Tonlé Sap Lake.
Later we settled our onboard bills, received our Pandaw Club gifts, and wrestled with the challenge of tipping a crew that had taken extraordinary care of us all week.
Final cocktail hour came with speeches from the captain, crew, and staff. Then they turned on the music and invited us all to the dance floor.
One last dinner together. A few final jokes. And a small group gathered on the sundeck for a final nightcap.
The Mekong drifted quietly past in the darkness.
February 22 — Disembarkation and the Road to Angkor
One last coffee with Rodney and Peter before breakfast.
Soon our bags were loaded and we boarded the bus for the 4½-hour drive to Siem Reap.
Along the road we passed cashew farms, rubber plantations, and cassava fields before arriving at the FCC Angkor, where we met our guide Phearin and driver Narin.
After saying goodbye to our new cruise friends we took a short drive to our hotel Jaya River House, we checked in, freshened up, and headed out for our first look at Angkor Wat.
Jaya River House (https://maps.app.goo.gl/FbqLGD3pfDduL9uE8)
Angkor Wat (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Z5jVZQLvtSmu8n4h6)
It was 93 degrees with brutal humidity, and the sunset hike quickly lost the battle against the heat.
Back at the hotel we were greeted with cold towels, cocktails, and what might be the most impressive check-in process ever—including a guest phone for calling the hotel tuk-tuk anywhere in town.
Our room featured a private patio pool, massive bathroom, open minibar, and included daily laundry.
Not bad for a stopover.
Dinner that night was a five-course meal with ginger and lemongrass mojitos before exploring Pub Street and the night market—busy, hot, and full of tourists.
Back at the hotel bar we ended up chatting with the owner, Christian de Boer, who shared stories about his past working with Richard Branson and how he ended up running a boutique hotel in Cambodia.
There may be more to that story…
But that’s a tale for the Angkor chapter.
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