Vietnam & Cambodia Chapter 2

Hoi An – Lanterns, River Boats, and a Slower Pace

Our final day with our guide Phuong and driver Quan started early. After breakfast at the hotel in Hue, we loaded up at 8:00 a.m. and began the drive south toward Hoi An, with several planned stops along the way.

About an hour into the trip we pulled into Lang Co Bay, a small coastal fishing and oyster farming village sitting on a narrow strip of sand between the mountains and the sea. The morning air was cool and quiet as we walked along the beach watching local oyster farmers tending their lines in the water.

We grabbed a coconut coffee, snapped a few photos of the bay, and watched one of the farmers harvest oysters right off the racks. Just up the road we ducked into a small jewelry shop called Viet Pearl, where the oysters from the bay often find their second life as jewelry. After a bit of friendly bargaining we walked out with matching his-and-hers oyster pearl bracelets—a small souvenir tied directly to the place we had just visited. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/mocqvTZp95SSmMibA)

From there the road began climbing into the mountains toward the famous Hai Van Pass, often called the Cloud Pass. The highway twisted up through green hillsides and around steep cliffs with spectacular views down to the ocean. At several points you could see the curve of the coastline and the city of Da Nang stretching out in the distance. It’s one of those drives where you almost wish the car would move a little slower so you can take it all in. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/5M29ywpcjQzKGPjX7)

Dropping down from the pass we entered Da Nang, passing a massive fishing harbor filled with thousands of blue and white fishing boats packed tightly together in the water. It looked like an entire floating city of trawlers preparing for their next run out to sea.

Our next stop was a marble and stone carving workshop called Nhut Manh. Here the craftsmen carve statues and sculptures from marble pulled from the nearby Marble Mountains. We watched one of the carvers shaping stone by hand—dust everywhere, the steady whine of cutting tools, and incredible patience. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/v4aTiD8ssxYViat86)

Then they mentioned something that changed everything: they ship internationally.

That was the moment the hook was set.

Before long we had purchased a beautiful 75-centimeter marble Buddha fisherman statue. It will take some time to arrive, but hopefully one day it will be sitting on our porch back home as a reminder of this trip.

From there we continued along the coastal road toward Hoi An, passing long beaches and increasingly modern resorts. The vibe changed noticeably—much more international and tourist friendly, with visitors from all over the world.

By early afternoon we stopped for lunch at Vy’s Market, a lively food hall filled with small stalls serving a variety of Vietnamese dishes. It had the feel of a bustling indoor market with cooking demonstrations happening, people moving everywhere, and great food options in every direction. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/wZEgSLPwjPFt5Y3YA)

After lunch we walked into Hoi An’s Old Town, knocking out several of the historic stops along the way:

• An Hoi Bridge (Chùa Cầu)

  (https://maps.app.goo.gl/BMedARr61MvDQd9eA)

• Old House of Tan Ky (Nhà cổ Tấn Ký) (https://maps.app.goo.gl/AFcQ6Sid4hAbC8Eo6)

• The Old House of Phung Hung (Nhà cổ Phùng Hưng) (https://maps.app.goo.gl/8ga5yDEuAGF89heF6)

• Several small historic administrative buildings and merchant homes.

  
  

Hoi An is a fascinating place—old merchant houses, narrow streets, lanterns hanging overhead, and shops selling everything from silk to leather goods. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/de2fx214x598ywK88)

By mid-afternoon we arrived at our hotel, the Victoria Hoi A Beach Resort, and it might be one of the most beautiful hotels we’ve stayed in yet. When you walk in, the open-air lobby looks straight out over the pool and beyond that to the beach and the South China Sea. It’s the kind of place where you immediately slow down and relax. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/rg3iGHKrYxGRo7g4A)

Our room was excellent, and after a full travel day we decided the best plan was simple:

pool time and dinner at the hotel.

A Morning on the River

The next morning we woke early, made coffee in the room, and walked down to the breakfast buffet by the pool. The setting alone was worth the trip—tables overlooking the pool, palm trees swaying, and the ocean just beyond the dunes.

The buffet was a mix of Western and Vietnamese options, so naturally we sampled a bit of everything.

Before heading out we had housekeeping pick up a bag of laundry for same-day service, one of the great small luxuries when traveling.

At 10:00 a.m. we boarded a boat arranged through the hotel for a one-hour ride into the old city. It turned out we were the only passengers, giving us a private ride on a large dragon-style river boat for about 990,000 dong (roughly $30 USD).

The ride itself was relaxing and offered a look at daily life along the river. Fishermen worked their nets while small round basket boats—the famous Vietnamese “circle boats”—zigzagged through the water.

At one point we passed a floating karaoke bar, which was exactly as amusing and chaotic as it sounds.

Further along a fisherman gave a demonstration of throwing a traditional casting net, the wide circle of rope and mesh spreading perfectly across the water before sinking below the surface.

As we approached the mouth of the river, the view opened up across the bay before the scenery gradually changed again—more hotels, more restaurants, more shops—as we drifted back toward the historic district.

Eventually the boat dropped us off near the famous lantern streets of Hoi An.

Wandering the Lantern City

Hoi An is best explored slowly, and that’s exactly what we did.

We wandered through narrow streets, stopping in shops selling silk artwork, leather bags, wallets, and custom shoes. One curious discovery—apparently not many places carry my size of shoes.

Eventually we took a break for coffee and air conditioning at Starbucks, which felt strangely familiar after days of local cafés.

More wandering followed before we grabbed a taxi back to the resort.

The afternoon was spent exactly where it should be—at the pool, drinking cold Tiger beers and sharing appetizers while chatting with a new friend named Paul from England. Like many travelers you meet on the road, Paul had a fascinating story. He had spent years trying to track down his father, an American Air Force veteran who left when he was young, eventually meeting him more than 30 years later.

Travel tends to bring together some interesting people.

Lanterns and the Night Market

Around 4:30 p.m. we wandered over to the pool restaurant for an early dinner and tried one of Hoi An’s signature dishes, Cao Lầu—thick noodles with pork, herbs, and crispy toppings. Simple and excellent.

Later that evening we took the hotel shuttle back into town to see Hoi An the way it’s meant to be seen—after dark.

At night the city transforms.

Hundreds of colorful lanterns glow above the streets and along the river, reflecting off the water while small boats drift slowly past carrying candles and tourists.

We crossed to the island and wandered through the night market, where vendors sell everything from souvenirs to street food to… watches.

Which is how we ended up purchasing three watches:

• His and hers “Rolex”

• And an Omega for me.

Eventually we walked out of the car-free zone to catch a Grab taxi back to the hotel. Our driver seemed to be in a bit of a hurry, but we survived the ride—so we’ll call it a success.

Back at the resort our laundry had already been returned, neatly folded and waiting in the room. We finished packing and were in bed by 9:30 p.m.

The alarm was set for 5:00 a.m..

Tomorrow we fly from Da Nang to Saigon, where the final adventure begins before boarding our cruise.