Vietnam & Cambodia Chapter 1

Our Journey to Hue – The Former Imperial Capital of Vietnam

Every great trip has a beginning that feels like a small expedition of its own. Ours started early with a 7:30 a.m. ride to the airport, kicking off what would become a nearly 30-hour journey across three countries before finally arriving in Hue, Vietnam.

Luck was already on our side before we even left the ground.

Our tickets were confirmed in coach for the 13-hour flight to Incheon, South Korea, but somehow we managed to snag the last two Delta One seats—4B and 4C. That unexpected upgrade set the tone for the trip. With comfortable seats, a couple of movies (Saving Private Ryan and One Battle After Another), and a steady rotation of Bloody Marys, wine, and surprisingly good airline meals—Korean short ribs and French toast—the long flight passed easily.

Crossing Continents

After landing in Incheon, we made the trek back and forth between the travel desk and our gate to secure standby seats on a Korean Air Boeing 777 to Vietnam. This leg was in coach—five hours, seats 39H and 39J—but after the luxury of Delta One we couldn’t complain. A simple meal of chicken and vegetables, an ice cream cup, some music, and a new Kindle book (History in a Nutshell Vietnam by Eric Rump) kept things moving along.

Because we waited until the last minute to apply for Vietnamese visas, we used a private service called IMMI. They not only expedited the visas in two days, but suggested a VIP immigration service. (Vietnam-immi.org)

Best travel decision we made.

As our plane taxied to the gate, I texted the agent. When we stepped off the plane, he was waiting with our names on a sign. Within minutes he whisked us past a massive immigration line, handed our passports to an agent, and escorted us to an empty inspection gate. Two minutes later we were officially in Vietnam while hundreds of travelers waited in line behind us.

He then guided us through the chaotic midnight crowd outside the terminal and arranged a ride to the domestic airport—a transfer we would have struggled to figure out ourselves.

The Final Leg to Hue

At the domestic terminal we checked in about an hour before our 12:45 a.m. Vietnam Airlines flight to Hue. The agent told us to wait.

Twenty minutes passed… then more.

Finally we were checked in—standby seats confirmed—and told to run for the gate because boarding had already begun. After security and a short walk to Gate 15, we stepped directly onto the plane as some of the last passengers to board.

The short 1 hour 15 minute flight to Hue felt like riding the airport shuttle to your car (easy) after the journey we had just completed.

Thirty hours after leaving home—across the United States, South Korea, and Vietnam—we arrived.

Welcome to Vietnam.

Arrival in Hue

We landed around 2:15 a.m. with one small hiccup: the hotel pickup arranged by our tour company never appeared.

After everything else had gone so smoothly, we couldn’t complain. A $12 taxi ride solved the problem and within thirty minutes we were pulling up to the Silk Path Grand Hue Hotel. (https://silkpathhotel.com/hue/)

Despite the hour, the staff greeted us warmly and checked us into a beautiful 5th-floor room overlooking the pool. Even better, there was cold beer waiting in the mini-fridge—exactly what two travelers needed before finally collapsing into bed.

A Gentle First Day in Hue

The next morning we woke slowly and explored the hotel grounds. The property is elegant but relaxed, with a large open lobby, gardens surrounding the pool, and a busy breakfast area filled with tourists heading out on early tour buses.

By the time we arrived for breakfast around 8:30 a.m., things had quieted down. We sampled a little bit of everything: banh mi sandwiches, pho, steamed buns, fresh fruit, noodles, and excellent Vietnamese coffee.

Naturally, our first official activity in Vietnam was… a 90-minute massage at the hotel spa.

Pam chose a body massage with scalp treatment, while I opted for body massage and foot reflexology. After thirty hours of travel, it was exactly what we needed.

Learning to Cross the Street in Vietnam

Later that afternoon the hotel bellman gave us our first piece of essential local advice:

“When you cross the street, walk slowly and confidently.Don’t stop, don’t run. The motorbikes will go around you.”

With that guidance, we ventured out toward the Perfume River.

We strolled along the waterfront, visited a small hat museum, KHÔNG GIAN NGHỀ TRUYỀN THỐNG HUẾ (https://maps.app.goo.gl/y3SNMMBUy6YYTyoq7) crossed the bridge to withdraw 3 million Vietnamese dong (about $120), and wandered through a busy street market Dong Ba Market (https://maps.app.goo.gl/fU5kFy6DbMA4gzPMA) selling everything imaginable—shoes, produce, watches, gold, rice, and street food.

The weather was perfect: mid-70s, cloudy skies, and a light breeze.

After an iced Vietnamese coffee break, we wandered back along the river boardwalk and finished the evening with dinner at Bến Trăng Café & Bistro (https://maps.app.goo.gl/PorGwu9sLFKQb4yk7) —chicken, short ribs, a cocktail, and a beer before heading back to the hotel for an early night.

A Slow Day of Exploring

Our second day was intentionally relaxed.

We slept in, enjoyed another leisurely breakfast, and—staying consistent with our wellness strategy—booked another massage.

Later we set off on foot and walked several miles through local neighborhoods to Ancient Hue Garden House (https://maps.app.goo.gl/SEpTZcvmoVkS6KoB7), a beautiful property that functions partly as a hotel and restaurant. The walk through nearby alleyways gave us our first glimpse of everyday Vietnamese life.

Lunch there was simple and delicious, and the stroll back to the hotel included a passing train, giant black butterflies, and a quiet cocktail by the pool.

Dinner was light—pho at the hotel restaurant—followed by another early bedtime.

Our First Guided Day in the Old Imperial Capital

The next morning we were up early for the first official day of our Pandaw pre-cruise tour. (www.pandaw.com)

After breakfast we met our guide in the lobby—a wonderful woman with deep knowledge of Vietnam’s history and modern life.

Our first stop was the river.

A Private Dragon Boat Ride

We walked a few blocks and climbed aboard a long, narrow dragon boat, where the owner actually lives on board with his family. His wife sold small handmade souvenirs as we drifted quietly along the Perfume River, enjoying the calm morning air.

Thien Mu Pagoda

Upstream we arrived at the famous seven-story pagoda perched on a hill above the river.

The pagoda grounds were peaceful and beautiful. Monks still live and study here, and the views over the river made it easy to understand why this is one of Hue’s most iconic sites. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/J6KTmbp49zLNk14BA)

Incense Village and the Royal Tombs

From there our driver took us to a small incense-making workshop, where colorful bundles of incense sticks were drying in the sun. We picked up a couple of vibrant paintings before continuing on to one of the elaborate royal tomb complexes Mausoleum of Emperor Tu Duc built for the Nguyen dynasty emperors. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/jTBSTu4uekK99qEb7)

The tomb grounds were beautiful—ponds, gardens, stone statues, and ornate gates. Many local visitors were dressed in traditional Vietnamese clothing, taking photographs among the historic buildings. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/w6gSKNqm6QkzJw269)

The Imperial Citadel

Our final major stop was the Imperial Citadel, once the heart of Vietnam’s royal court.

This massive complex once housed the emperor, royal family, and government administration. Much of the Forbidden Purple City was destroyed during the Vietnam War, but restoration work is slowly bringing the historic structures back to life. The architecture reflects a fascinating mix of Vietnamese imperial design and French colonial influence.

Thái Hòa Palace (https://maps.app.goo.gl/DNDSLDwz6satDHAr8)

Hue Historic Citadel (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ypy749MfUuYhmhP36)

Y Thao Garden House Lunch

After touring the citadel we stopped for lunch at a beautiful traditional garden house restaurant. The setting felt designed for visitors, but the food was wonderful and beautifully presented—dishes arranged like birds, turtles, and flowers. (https://maps.app.goo.gl/QkXeu7DTZNaKwna37)

By 2:00 p.m. we returned to the hotel, just in time for an afternoon nap and a bit of packing before dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Next Stop: Hoi An

After four days in Hue—recovering from travel, exploring markets and riverbanks, learning to dodge motorbikes, and diving into the city’s imperial history—we were ready for the next chapter.

Tomorrow we leave Hue behind and head south to Hoi An, one of Vietnam’s most beautiful historic towns.

More adventures ahead.